What are emollients?
Emollients are substances which smooth, soothe and hydrate the skin. As such, they are particularly valuable in the treatment and alleviation of skin conditions (e.g. eczema and psoriasis) and other dry and scaling disorders. Emollients usually contain lipids (see below) which are applied to the skin to keep it soft and pliable and prevent it from cracking. The word ‘emollient’ comes from the Latin word ‘emollire,’ which means ‘to soften’.
What is the difference between an emollient and a moisturiser?
In general terms, ‘emollients’ are substances which are used to smooth, soothe and hydrate (i.e. moisturise) the skin; ‘moisturisers’ soften skin by increasing its moisture level.
Although there are some subtle differences between the terms ‘emollient’ and ‘moisturiser’ (‘emollient’ is often used to refer to an ingredient in a formulation whereas ‘moisturiser’ usually refers to a finished formulated product) at a general level the terms are used interchangeably.
What are lipids?
Lipids are a broad group of naturally occurring (organic) substances which includes sterols and some vitamins (e.g. A, D, E and K). The lipids most commonly used in skin care products are waxes (e.g. lanolin and petrolatum) and fats (e.g. glycerides such as vegetable oils). Oils may be regarded as liquid fats and waxes.
How do emollients (moisturisers) work?
Despite their apparent simplicity, the ways which emollients work are quite sophisticated. One way in which emollients (moisturisers) help to increase skin hydration is by forming films of lipid on the surface of the skin. These lipid films reduce the level of trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) from the skin, allowing moisture levels within the outer layer of the skin (the stratum corneum) to increase and the skin to become pliable. Other ingredients known as humectants (e.g. glycerin) may also be added to emollient (moisturiser) products to help retain moisture. Lubricants may also be added to improve skin feel.
However, it is not only occlusivity which determines the efficacy of an emollient. In recent years, a great deal of research has been carried out into what is referred to as the ‘barrier function’ of skin. One useful analogy is that the stratum corneum is very much like a miniature brick wall where the skin cells (the bricks) are held within a natural, lipid mortar (called stratum corneum lipids). One weakness with the analogy is that the dermatological brick wall is designed to keep water in not out!
In some circumstances (e.g. over washing of the hands, eczema etc), some of these natural lipids may be lost or are present in reduced levels, allowing TEWL levels to increase and the formation of dry skin. In normal, healthy subjects, over time, the level of stratum corneum lipids will return to normal. However, in some circumstances (e.g. cold, wet conditions or people with eczema) it can take much longer for skin lipid levels to normalise and often the skin is unable to repair itself completely. This is where emollients are useful. Emollients allow the ‘gaps’ which have formed in the natural lipid barrier to be ‘filled in’ reducing TEWL levels to fall and allowing the skin to become hydrated.
However, not all emollients behave similarly and some are better than others in helping to repair skin barrier function. In recent clinical studies, highly pure medical grade lanolin (as used in Evolve Plus) has been shown to be even better than petrolatum at repairing damaged skin barrier function.
What is the difference between ointments, creams and lotions?
Ointments are emollients (moisturisers) which contain a high proportion of lipid and a low amount of water; some ointments are anhydrous (i.e. they do not contain any water at all). Conversely, lotions contain lower levels of lipid and higher levels of water. Creams tend to be somewhere in between ointments and lotions in terms of their lipid and water content.
One of the most important differences between ointments, creams and lotions is their aesthetics. Lotions tend to be ‘lighter’ and have greater cosmetic appeal as they are cooler to the touch and easier to rub into the skin. However, ointments, which can feel sticky and/or greasy, contain higher levels of lipid and correspondingly more efficacious. .
What is special about ‘Evolve Plus ’?
A number of things:-
Firstly, Evolve Plus is a sprayable, anhydrous, pure lipid moisturising emollient system – it contains no water. Being anhydrous has a number of distinct advantages particularly for people with sensitive skin conditions such as eczema. Incorporating lipids into creams and lotions usually means that in addition to water, emulsifiers, solubilisers and preservatives need to be added to the products to keep the formulations stable. As Evolve Plus is based on a 100% pure lipid system, it does not contain these extra additives, which can be problematical for people with sensitive skin conditions.
Secondly, as Evolve Plus is delivered in the form of a fine spray, the emollient may be applied to the skin in very thin layers. Thicker layers may be formed simply by repeating the spraying. Evolve Plus has the advantage of being an anhydrous lipid system combined with the aesthetic properties of a lotion.
A further significant advantage of Evolve Plus is that the propellants used in the formulation have been chosen to impart an immediate cooling effect on the skin, which helps to break both the pain and itch (and therefore scratch) associated with many skin conditions. Unlike many moisturisers, the highly pure medical grade lanolin (used in Evolve Plus spray) is known for its long lasting emollient action.
What are xerosis and pruritus?
Xerosis is the medical term for dry skin and pruritus is the Latin word for itch. BUY EVOLVE PLUS